Finisterre/Muxia and then home
We thought we have finished our path and we have seen everything, we wanted to act like tourists and then go back home and instead today we get to Finisterre and landed in the most wonderful albergue we met since we started our journey. The place is not “amazing” but the people here are truly genuine and wonderful. Fatima, the great owner of the house is a magnet for that kind of pilgrims that love sharing and knowing other people. The people stop here for a night and then stay for some day, 10 days or even 2 months. Her albergue is not on any list, no site apart a Facebook page, there are no signals and she doesn’t care about advertising it. She says that the pilgrims get there if they need to go there.
After visiting the lighthouse and reached the famous kilometer “0” we get to the albergue just after noon, right in time to sit and have a good risotto prepared by Michele, a guy from Brescia who had to stop here after he injured his foot and decided to stay here. He stays here as hospitaller and says that he cannot stay away from this place.
In the afternoon Grazia and I go for a walk along the shore to collect some shells to take back home as souvenir and for someone who could not get here with their path. We sink our feet in the cold water of the ocean. After that we go food shopping before going back to the albergue, tonight we make a hot soup with fresh beans given by a neighbor who collected them in her garden.
After a good sleep we wake up at 8.30 am and we take it easy before having breakfast; we have coffee and a couple of slices of a croissant just came out from the oven of the baker. In the meanwhile we chit chat while we wait for Fatima, she promised to take us to visit two special places in Finisterre and to take us to Muxia by car.
Once she arrives we just have some time to exchange the t-shirts, we leave our green shirts to Fatima and she gives us the shirts of her albergue and then we leave. First she takes us to visit the ruins of the church of San Guglielmo where they say there’s the real destination of the pilgrims, there’s not much left to be honest but it’s a nice place.
Then we reach the highest point in Finisterre, above some rocks from where the ocean can be watched almost at 360 degrees. On the horizon the sky meets the ocean and from afar we can see a storm coming slowly towards us.
After enjoying the panorama and after some pictures we go back to the car to go down and visit Muxia, just 28 kilometers from here.
Once we arrive in Muxia there’s nothing much to watch to be honest, we go to the Sanctuary called “Vregine della Barca” (Virgin of the boat) which caught fire 3 years ago due to a lightning and it’s been rebuilt; the frescos unfortunately got lost. Higher on the hill there’s a monument called “La Herida” ( The Wound) in memory of the sinking of an oil tanker and the potential ecologic disaster on these shores during 2002.
In front of the monastery instead we enjoy the wonderful panorama accompanied by the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks, but unfortunately a bus is waiting for us to take us back to Santiago and after a quick snack at a bar we sadly say goodbye to Fatima; we already miss her and go back to the big city.
We get back to the same albergue we visited two days ago and by night we reach the center of the city to have dinner; we are a nice group with Vittorino, Adriano, Fredric from Austria and Lionel from New Mexico: we just met many of them. To be honest Adriano and Grazia were already Facebook friends and followed each others’ journey from there.
This is another aspect of the journey.
Tomorrow afternoon we will be taking the flight back home, we go to bed later than usual knowing that tomorrow we can take it easy and wake up later. We can go around until noon before taking the bus to the airport. We’d be sad if these were our first days walking but after 4 months, talking about Grazia, and 2 months, talking about me, finally going home is not sad at all.